Why Hungry Philosophy?

Its late. My once dull headache now pounds furiously. My mouth, so dry, can no longer hold words. The murmur of bubbling, gurgling emptiness inside now pervades my whole body with an angry pulse. I feel like an imploding star and my stomach growls in angry protest. I am caving in, hungry.

For us fortunate ones, writing in the comfort of a home with a well stocked pantry and fridge, it is difficult to describe the primal animal pangs of hunger. We have the audacity and luxury to ask “what’s for dinner?” They are too many of us who know hunger all too well and are not reading this blog or scouring the net for recipes. It occurs to me that I have yet to explain why “the hungry philosopher.” I have not “known” hunger. I have been an occasional tourist, when fasting or skipping an occasional meal. My few years in Bangladesh, notorious for hungry people, I enjoyed a steady rhythm of four meals a day (including tea) surrounded by lush fruit trees and the heavy scent of sauteing ginger, garlic and onions lazily wafting from the distant kitchen across the veranda. I have seen hunger. It looks like a strange combination of restless anxiety and despondent lethargy. Famed Bangladeshi artist, Zainul Adedin’s depiction of the 1940s famine (now housed in the British Museum) may help visualize.

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from http://departmag.com

It is disheartening for me to know that where I live, one of richest countries in the world, dehumanizing hunger is allowed to exist. I am not an expert on hunger and cannot not speak on it’s ruthless behalf. My reference to hunger is perhaps ashamedly cerebral and poetic. Consider this both an apology and a belated explanation.

The hungry philosopher thinks by visualizing and tasting, by confronting primal anxieties through an awareness of life sustaining small things ingested and shared, like kale, bread and blueberries. This is merely an account of my struggle to conjure meaning out of suburban existence marked by grocery at Payless, soccer games on cold wet mornings, weekday afternoon dance classes, rushed dinners, rattling washer-dryers, sink full of dishes and repeat.  No grand Pioneer woman prairie vistas, Anthony Bourdain exotic layovers, Ina Garten Hampton elegance or Giada ocean views. No. This is a bitter cold winter and long summer twilight Mid-western small town. I hunger and long for escape to either exciting coast only to rush back to the safety and ease of the empty Indianapolis airport. We make small meanings here. The popcorn festivals, the farmer’s markets, the ice-cream socials, the community bbqs, the Mainstreet festivals, the school fundraisers, the “diverse world community” celebrations and yes, the family dinner are all a part of that struggle. I once heard there are only one of three reasons to live anywhere: family, job or beauty. Confessedly, for most of the year, beauty is not the reason to live in suburban West Lafayette, Indiana. The charm of sleepy small towns is lost on immigrants, like myself, craving the support of big city economic, racial, religious, sexual diversity and comforting anonymity. This blog is about finding myself in that real and imagined larger world, beyond cosmopolitan cities, across space and time through internet magic. Here you are reading my words. What do we have in common? We are all struggling to make meaning of our everyday through the meals we eat. We are a community of eaters aware of our visceral and virtual dependence on others for emotional and biological sustenance and assurance. The hungry philosopher in all of us is hungry for a plated robust life. I don’t know why you are still generously reading this, except that maybe wherever you are, you are hungry and struggling to plate meaning too. This blog is not about helping you make meaning but helping you recognize that you already are.

I’d like to end with how chef Gabrielle Hamilton’s describes her taste of hunger and why it is the organizing principle of her restaurant having “understood hospitality and care from a recipient’s point of view.” She writes,

I came to see hunger as being as important a part of a stage as knife skills. Because so much of starving on that trip led to such an enormous amount of time fantasizing about food, each craving became fanatically particular. Hunger was not general, ever, for just something, anything, to eat. My hunger grew so specific I could name every corner and fold of it. Salty, warm, brothy, starchy, fatty, sweet, clean and crunchy, crisp and watery, and so on.”

Diapers, Chickens and Smart- Hard Design Thinking

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Chef Gabrielle Hamilton of Prune, writes in Blood, Bones and Butter of how running a restaurant prepared her for parenthood,

“I thought of telling them how changing a diaper reminds me, every time, of trussing a chicken. How sleepless nights and long grueling hours under intense physical discomfort were already part of my daily routine long before I had children. How labeling every school lunch bag, granola bar, juice box, extra sweater, and nap blanket with permanent Sharpie is like what we’ve been doing every day for thirty years, labeling the foods in our walk-ins. How being the chef and owner of a restaurant means you already by definition, mastered the idea of “systems,” “routines,” and “protocols” so that everyone who works for you can work smart-hard rather than work stupid-hard. So that by the time you are setting up your household and preparing yourself for adding children, you have a tendency toward this kind of order, logic and efficiency.”

This is a good description of design thinking across seemingly unrelated activities: parenting and running a restaurant. It also describes how working prepares us to parent rather than the other way around. I so enjoy her vivid imagery and hyphenated characterizations like, long herbal-tea-soaked conversations of “spirituality.” It is worth reading as a full course or in small bites of sentence fragments to be washed down with our own food memories. She describes such a rushed and gritty culinary education coupled with an equally elegant and comforting childhood. She lives in at least two worlds simultaneously: the spinning world of the ferociously hungry traveler and the opulent world of the aesthete. I’d like to eat at her restaurant, Prune and taste both worlds. Here are a few sentences from the chapter describing her restaurant philosophy,

“To be picked up and fed, often by strangers, when you are in that state of fear and hunger, became the single most important and convincing food experience I came back to over and over, that sunny afternoon humming around my apartment, wondering how I might translate such an experience into the restaurant I was now sure I was about to open down the block.”

further on she describes the table atmosphere in detail that would make her stage designer father beam with pride,

“There would be no foam and no “conceptual” or “intellectual” food; just the salty, sweet, starchy, brothy, crispy things that one craves when one is actually hungry. There would be nothing tall on the plate, the portions would be generous, there would be no emulsions, no crab cocktail served in a martini glass with its claw hanging over the rim. In ecstatic farewell to my years of corporate catering, we would never serve anything but a martini in a martini glass. Preferably gin.”

I clap with glee at the irony of her profoundly intellectual, anti-intellectualism. What a designer!