Ski resort in summer?

Off season travel has surprising benefits. We traveled to Cuba during the low tourism rainy season and as a result suffered fewer lines, had more access and had less competition for resources.  More importantly, it was easier to observe everyday rhythms and  non-vacation life. If we consider every place as someone’s home then travel becomes, for me, more compassionate and more interesting. I’m visiting Breckenridge, Colorado with my sister’s family. It is July. It has been cool and raining. Not the ideal vision of a winter ski resort. The primacy of winter is apparent everywhere in the merchandising and city layout.  Yet. There is something delightfully surprising about the burst of colorful flowers everywhere,the lush green that erupts from under snow-capped mountains. There is something defiant about summer here struggling against the cold and rain. The brief moments of sun feel….glorious. Getting a morning coffee we pass people biking, jogging, going to yoga despite the sprinkling rain. They may be tourists or resident, regardless they are at home. Over a 10,000 feet above sea level, we have our heads, literally in the clouds. Rain is a part of being here in summer. Being here off season. Being here when it is less than ideal. Being here when it is perhaps more, real.

Beignets at the Lost Cajun is comforting on a rainy cool day.

 

Navigating Brooklyn’s Food Mecca as a Broke, Millennial Foodie – Guest Post

Immediately after accepting an internship offer in Manhattan last April, I started to fantasize about how fabulous my summer would be. The first thing on my mind was not the crazy nightlife, the many free summer concerts, or the various world-renowned art museums – it was Smorgasburg, an outdoor ‘flea’ market that hosts dozens of vendors selling the trendiest and most Instagram-worthy food.

Since getting to NYC, I’ve been to Smorgasburg twice, giving me ample opportunity to sample the spread that this market has to offer, convincing my companions to split dishes with me to maximize the diversity of dishes we could try. Mostly serving as a guide for when HungryPhil visits me in a few weeks, here’s a rundown of my Smorgasburg highlights:

Grilled Summer Corn from Bisska

blog-1 blog2Seemingly simple, this corn was definitely one of my most favorite things I’ve had since getting to city. Cooked to order on a charcoal grill in front of you, this charred corn is topped with a mayo and paprika based sauce and served in a paper boat. The sweetness of the corn, the smokiness of the paprika complimented by the charcoal, and the creamy mayo tying it all together made this an unforgettable summery eat.

Chamoyada from La Newyorkina

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This beverage had a lot going on, and I was incredibly intrigued with how this sweet/spicy/salty combination would turn out. Somehow, it all blended together perfectly, and served as a refreshing, cold respite from the 90 degree weather. So many of these flavors were familiar to me individually in a South Asian context, but this Mexican slush combined these to create a whole new, unique experience. 

Shaved Ice from People’s Pops

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Although my first thought, when seeing them chisel ice on-the-spot, was that they were trying too hard, this hand-shaved ice definitely added a layer of complexity to a usually mundane summer treat. Each flake was shaped differently, and melted differently on your tongue, allowing the Arnold Palmer flavoring to absorb at different rates. It served as a good, refreshing palate cleanser.

Mozzarella Sticks from Big Mozz

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Again, another seemingly mundane food has a ‘foodie’ makeover, and comes out beautifully. Lactose-intolerance be damned. These mozzarella sticks had nothing fancy going on, just quality, hand-pulled mozzarella deep-fried to order with some fresh marinara sauce on the side. Simplicity won in this round.

The Ramen Burger

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This was my second foray into the famous Ramen Burger territory. The burger consists of a small beef patty, sandwiched in between two disks of compressed, spongy ramen, and covered with a soy-sauce based dressing, arugula, and scallions.

As with many things that are hyped up, the burger (on both occasions) failed to live up to my expectations. There’s no denying that it was delicious, with the bun melting in your mouth as you bit into it. It was, however, very one-noted – there didn’t seem to be the complexity of flavors that I usually expect in a burger, something to balance the super-savory meatiness of the patty. Something like a spicy kimchi slaw would really elevate this burger – perhaps I just need to make my own DIY version at home.

Spicy Mayo Salmon Poke from East Coast Poke

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This quite possibly was my favorite dish out of everything I’ve tried at Smorgasburg. Kind of like deconstructed sushi, poke is a traditional Hawaiian dish. This version was served on a bed of seaweed salad and soft, sticky sushi rice. A creamy Sriracha mayo pulled everything together. Although semi-skeptical of eating raw fish that was being served outside in the summer weather, I really enjoyed how simultaneously refreshing and substantial the poke was.

Hopefully with throughout the rest of the summer, I’ll be able to expand this list, but for now, I think I’ve done some decent damage to exploring the 75+ vendors at Smorgasburg.

Tastings of the Tenement – Food Tour

I always felt food was magical with abilities to transport us in space and time, much like good books. Food can make us feel connected to both identity and difference. I spent last week exploring and eating the Lower East Side of NYC and I have magically traveled the globe: french pastries, Italian pasta and gelato, Jewish latkes and matzo soup, Srilankan Kutto, Morrocan tagine and bastilla, Chinese dumplings and spicy cumin lamb ripped noodles, Vietnamese Banhmi sandwiches, Indian samosas, etc. Of all these places, I have only physically been to Paris. What a privilege to have access to the world through my tastebuds! To quite literally consume, internalize, appreciate, enjoy other tastes. Yes, yes, I know it is not the same as going to these places and eating the dishes in their native environments. But, these tastings are certainly strong enticements to travel beyond our personal tastes and comfort zones. A closed mouth may easily represent a closed mind. And, certainly my tastes of the world were to a more or less degree — Americanized versions of the culturally original or AUTHENTIC. I struggle with the valorization of authenticity (a bit of Heideggerian baggage). As you know, I label my recipes on this blog as inauthentic because I hesitant to claim a cultural purity, Bengali, Bangladeshi, Southern, Muslim, Hoosier or otherwise. Who determines what is authentic? Does Americanized automatically mean inauthentic? What does Americanized mean? These are questions raised at the Tenement Tastings Tour that celebrates American immigrant history. As with all experiences of taste, you will have to taste for yourself and come to your own conclusions. Here is a brief account of my experience.

After a tour of a Jewish immigrant tenement apartment on 97 Orchard, we sat down together around a big table. Our guide talked us through each dish, the local restaurant it came from and how each item represents a people.

Our tour began with German tastes of soft pretzels and  potato salad. It is hard for us relatively “new ethnic arrivals” to imagine Europeans as having been once considered, ‘other.’ During the Temperance movement, German bars were a specific target of legislation. Much of the political organization talked about in the shop keepers tour of the Tenement museum involved the collective resistance of the business owners.

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Pickled cucumbers and pineapples represented Jewish immigrants.

Cured meats and olives were offered as representations of Italian immigrants.

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Cotija cheese with guava jelly, sweet plantains, and Cuban sandwiches represented Cuban, Dominican and Puerto Rican immigrants.

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Chinese immigrants were represented by vegetable dumplings and peanut noodles.

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Our dessert plate included Hong Kong egg custard cups, German pretzels – chocolate dipped and halwa.  Multiple histories on a plate. Now American.

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What would I add to this tour as a representation of South Asian immigration? Samosas?

One needs to be aware of the danger of stereotyping food as well as people. How we separate or put it all these tastes together help us rise above the differences and enjoy our common humanity through shared pleasures of taste, find resonances and distinctions. Much like, Dominican restaurants that sell Chinese food or American diner offerings. For me, inviting unfamiliar spices and tastes primes me to invite otherness into my life and maybe be a little less afraid. Food makes me want to visit, meet and reach out to unfamiliar cultures. Thailand and Morroco are high on my travel wish list. If what we eat defines us, I want to eat everything, as much as possible and responsible, as much as a hungry philosopher.

Now back to Indiana where my global food adventures continue in my kitchen.

Wishing you the privilege of an open palate,

Hungryphil

L.E.S Eats Continued …

The Meatball Shop

I had soft fluffy chicken meatballs in classic marinara over creamy polenta. Hearty and refreshing at the same time. The vegetable meatball slider had an earthy mushroom flavor. Small place, great service. The homemade ice cream sandwich was well worth it. The mint ice cream center tasted of actual mint…not artificial mint flavor. Giving the ice cream sandwich, like the meatballs surprising lightness. Love NYC contradictions on a plate.

I CE NY Ice cream Speaking of ice cream. Here is a different perspective in the smashed and rolled ice cream. The frozen treat is created before your eyes on a cold metal plate through a process of folding, smashing, folding again. Human labor powered ice cream churning. I had the Thai iced-tea flavored ice cream with Lychees and condensed milk.  It was the unique performance that was worth paying for. Crowded tiny store, like so many NYC establishments.

Prune

Like so many others, it was Chef Gabrielle Hamilton’s words in Blood, Bones and Butter,  that drew me to her restaurant. I was not disappointed. Her food was just as elegant, clear and raw, as her writing.  We had her classic eggs benedict, oyster omelet, and an unusual breaded, soft poached egg over a light chickpea curry. I want to try and taste her perspective in all her menu items. I bet even the toast will be fantastically precise. Tiny elegant yet unpretentious dining room, almost hidden residential neighborhood. Again, NYC contradictions of elegance and intense personality. The outdoor light fixtures say it all..literary, nostalgia, simplicity, clear and feminine. The potato rosti speaks the same language of crunch and softness, buttery richness and technical lightness in the shredded potatoes. Perfection.

A good place to walk off a good brunch is the High Line.

Chelsea Market: Tukomi Taco

Tuna tartare over nacho chips, no cheese, refreshing, crunchy, smooth, spicy…who knew! Apparently, Tukomi Taco did. Ironically, I didn’t enjoy the namesake, taco as much as the nachos.

La Contenta

One of the most beautiful and memorable meals this trip was brunch at La Contenta. Notice the care in the ice-coffee alone. Three beans perched on a layer of frothy milk over coffee. The chicken enchiladas, guacamole, shrimp and spinach and fish tacos all showed the same care in preparation. This was not heavy cheesy Mexican fare. Here again, NYC strong flavors meet elegant approach in a tiny unassuming space. No grandeur, all skill.

The Metropolitan Musem of Art is another good place to walk off a uniquely delicious brunch. I like to think that my yoga efforts help me convert from this………….

To this…………….

In NYC we embrace that we are always both, struggling and serene. The food shows that duality of effort and skill, beautifully plated and served to a crazy diverse crowd.

Wishing you all serenity and deliciousness,

hungryphil

Tasting the L.E.S

Hungryphil reporting from NYC this week. I’m visiting my  daughter interning on the Lower East Side. Here is what I have tasted so far:

  1. Katz’s Deli: Respect. Just has to be done. Due to my late night arrival, we opted for the latkes and matzo soup. I know, I know, the pastrami sandwich is glorious. Another day.
  2. Dominique Ansel: Cronut. Flaky, fried, jelly-filled, sugar dusted, glazed…it is everything. For me…. a lot. The cannele  are my favorite. Great spot to chart out a day wandering through the SoHo galleries.
  3. From Rice to Riches: All shades of rice pudding. I had the mango with shredded coconut on top. Very nice. I think, I might like the containers even more.
  4. Saigon Vietnamese Sandwich Deli: Warm crusty bread, tasty fillings. A lot of food. I still have a half in my hotel refrigerator. IMG_3447
  5. Eataly : An elaborate and decadent celebration of Italian eats. The cannelloni was so delicate and the marinara was light and happy.
  6. Indikitch: A fast food, less intimidating version of Indian food. Choose your base and meat…easy. And, spicy tasty.  The tea made me feel at home. IMG_3451
  7. Vanessa’s Dumpling House: Best lunch for five bucks. Hot, steamy dumplings. Didn’t get a picture. I gobbled the dumplings down between tours at the Tenement Museum. LOVED the museum. Worth a day of exploration. Urban history and immigrant stories combine to offer a living evolutionary picture of how we live with each other. All the fears, hopes, the moments of unity and disparity. Fascinating. Is there an immigrant who doesn’t love and respect NYC? IMG_3452
  8. Il Laboratorio del Gelato: Unusual gelato combinations for the gastronomically curious. I tried black pepper and avocado gelato. Perfect snack on a hot city day…..noisy jackhammers, smells of steamy asphalt, pee, passing perfume, dripping high-rise A/C units, alterations of tree and building shade, hot sun….everything happening…and then this strangeness melts in your mouth. It makes sense. Here. IMG_3455
  9. Xian Foods: Hot spicy noodles. Slurpy. Got delicious red chili oil all over my dress. Well worth it. Spinach dumplings in spicy chili sauce would be a satisfying vegetarian meal any day….look at the size of the dumplings! The lamb cumin noodles reminded me of Indian curries, Moroccan tagines,  and Mexican stews…. a warm comforting spicy almost universal taste.
  10. Mcnally Jackson Books: So civilized. Books, coffee, and baked treats. What could be better? This might be my new favorite bookstore in NYC (Sorry Strand). Rosemary currant scone with butter and jelly, people watching, day planning, book browsing…..these are a few of my favorite things…..IMG_3465

There is still so much to explore… in a five block radius! The diversity is humbling. Today Srilankan and Moroccan food are on the menu. And, maybe an indie movie if it rains. If not, let the wandering and wondering continue.

Wishing you happy tastings wherever you may be,

Hungryphil

 

 

 

 

Food Poem – Summer Kitchen by Donald Hall

This poem is a lovely reminder of the hidden magic of routine things taken for granted. It is an exercise of mindful awareness, of noticing the details with gratitude. May I experience such a miracle today and wishing you the same.

In June’s high light she stood at the sink
With a glass of wine,
And listened for the bobolink,
And crushed garlic in late sunshine.

I watched her cooking, from my chair.
She pressed her lips
Together, reached for kitchenware,
And tasted sauce from her fingertips.

“It’s ready now. Come on,” she said.
“You light the candle.”
We ate, and talked, and went to bed,
And slept. It was a miracle.

“Summer Kitchen” by Donald Hall from The Selected Poems of Donald Hall.

From the Writer’s Almanac, June 22nd, 2016

Food reference: Dalai Lama

Recently we had the honor of listening to the Dalai Lama speak in Indianapolis. During the event he spoke of diversity, compassion, education, meditation, restraint, countermeasures to mischevious people and of course our fundamental common humanity. In preparation for the event I read through the Art of Happiness, 10th Anniversary Edition: A Handbook for Living. He references food in a few passages to explain the benefits of diversity and the process of learning.  Here are two:

“The purpose of religion is to benefit people, and I think that if we only had one religion, after a while it would cease to benefit many people. If we had a restaurant, for instance, and it only served one dish — day after day, for every meal — that restaurant wouldn’t have many customers left after a while. People need and appreciate diversity in their food because there are so many different tastes. In the same way, religions are meant to nourish the human spirit. And I think we can learn to celebrate that diversity in religions and develop a deep appreciation of the variety of religions.”

 

“When you talk of knowledge leading to freedom or resolution of a problem, you have to understand that there are many different levels. For example, let’s say that human beings in the Stone Age didn’t know how to cook meat but they still had a biological need to eat, so they just ate like a wild animal. As humans progressed, they learned how to cook and then how to put different spices to make the food tasty and then they came up with more diverse dishes. And even up to our  present age, if we are suffering from a particular illness and through our knowledge we learn that a certain type of food is not good for us, even though we might have a desire to eat it, we restrain ourselves from eating it. So it is clear that the more sophisticated  the level of our knowledge is, the more effective we will be in dealing with the natural world.”

Cuban Coffee Chronicles – Final Day 9

Our last day in Cuba ended with a visit to Fusterlandia before we headed to the airport. A crazy Picasso meets Gaudi situation where the artist converted his home and many others in the community into glistening, colorful, funny, joyous celebrations of art, community and Cuba. A very befitting way to end our trip.

What a trip from Santi Spiritus to Habana! In between, I discovered the creativity and resourcefulness of the Cuban people. I was impressed by the role of music, dance and art, by the ration cards that held information about each citizen’s medical needs,  by availability and respect for education, by their efforts towards sustainable development, by their surprisingly entrepreneurial spirit, by their awareness of the dangers and benefits of tourism, by their efforts to be energy efficient and ecologically sensitive, by the general safety and scarcity of crime and gun violence, by the active and respected role of women, by their racial diversity and much more. Yes, often the ideology does not translate into reality.  However, the effort seemed genuine and hopeful. On the other end of the spectrum, no fishing boats are allowed for fear of citizens escaping to Miami. They import fish while they have fish available off the coast. There is certainly a level of control and suspicion that we as foreigners were not privy to. The dual currency system of CUCs and pesos frustrates everyone to no end. The infrastructure is lacking, as in the case of highways or crumbling, as in the case of old Havana. There is so much in need of repair. Housing and food seemed to be the biggest concerns for Cubans. Given Cuba’s slave trade past, elimination of native population, harsh and exploitive sugar plantations (like many countries) it offers a humble history lesson about working for one’s self and the sanctity of labor.

Personally, I will carry two lessons learned in Cuba onward.

  1. For us, what we own, in particular, home ownership, to a large extent defines us. Cubans seem to define themselves by what they do, instead of what they own (most of what they ‘own’ comes unofficially from family living abroad or the black market..flat screen TVs seem to be the highly prized). This was a worthy reminder for me. What would I do if I couldn’t define myself by what I “own”?
  2. Each home was an independent business in all the towns we visited, whether as a casa particulaire (bread and breakfast), paladar (restaurant) or craft studio. The living rooms of most houses visible from the street were devoted to selling something they made. Despite limitations, there is always something one can offer, even if that is five mangoes and two bananas on a table. What can I do with whatever skills and abilities I do have?

I was humbled by my Cuba experience and thankful for all the gifts I enjoy. The struggle towards a world without starvation, homelessness, violence, ignorance and sickness are fundamental human material needs (and not mere ideology) practiced there. How we get there is worth ongoing discussion. Cuba is an important voice in that discussion. Viva Cuba!

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Cuban Coffee Chronicles – Day 8

Day 8 was devoted to manly things: Cars and cigars.

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We woke up to a view of Havana from our hotel window. First, a little of taste of 1950s cars for the car lovers on the bus.

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The drivers and owners of these cars beam with pride. Such joy. They carry note cards with all the information about the cars for curious tourists.

Walking around in Havana was a delight. I found a cookbook at the book market!

After a stroll, we were introduced to a “cuban marriage.” Cigar, rum and coffee. We watched how cigars are meticulously rolled. Yet, another art form.

We had lunch…..the casava soup was the best part…

We did a short tour of Havana in caravans of classic cars. One stop was at the biggest public square.

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We visited a place where they restore old American cars. Hiring sculptors from the art schools, they do amazing work refurbishing cars over a half century old! The owner was articulate and welcoming. He talked about the challenges of balancing passion and profit in running a business.

Briefly visited a craft market that was the size of a football field. Huge. Hot.

I ended our last day in Cuba resting in the hotel room and had to miss our farewell dinner. Too much sun, too much heat, too much food. A really good day and was thankful to have the extra rest.

Cuban Coffee Chronicles – Day 7

Las Terrazas a reclaimed coffee plantation is a self-sustaining community project, a designated UNESCO biosphere reserve since 1984. Bird watching, hiking, horseback riding are among the offering. A community of over 1000 inhabitants and the area has schools, a daycare, a small clinic, library, ration store and a coffee shop. Maria, pictured below was the first to run the coffee shop. The chilled coffee was perfect on a hot day.

One of the residents of the Las Terazzas is artist Lester Campa. We visited his inspiring studio overlooking a lake. His fluid surrealist work combines Cuban landscape with cultural references. He uses reclaimed wood, craft paper, water colors and acrylic.

Lunch at Las Terrazas included some of the best chicken I had in Cuba and chickens roaming around at our feet. Felt wrong. Assuredly the chicken was fresh. Poor chickens.

Next, more dancing at a music school….

We visited an after school guitar and music center where the teachers are volunteers and children shared a few Cuban and Latin rhythms. Very talented.

We were lucky to get a reservation at La Guarida, a paladar that numerous celebrities visited, including the talk-show host Conan O’Brian (we found his picture on the wall). We got there early (riding our 1966 Chevy) to enjoy the view from the rooftop bar. The dinner was elegant and delicious. I had a lamb dish that had been slow cooked for over 12 hours. It was so soft. I also had a delicious coconut milk poured over cake and lime ice cream. Summery combination.

Our evening ended back with our travel friends at Old Havana listening to the music of the Buena Vista Social Club. Intimate atmosphere, amazing music, talented dancers and just such a sophisticated and soulful pleasure.