Food Poem- In a Kitchen Where Mushrooms Were Washed (Jane Hirshfield)

In a kitchen where mushrooms were washed,

the mushroom scent lingers.

As the sea must keep for a long time the scent of the whale.

As a person who’s once loved completely,
a country once conquered,
does not release that stunned knowledge.

They must want to be found, those strange-shaped, rising morels,
clownish puffballs.

Lichens have served as a lamp-wick.
Clean-burning coconuts, olives.
Dried salmon, sheep fat, a carcass of petrel set blazing:
light that is fume and abradement.

Unburnable mushrooms are other.
They darken the air they come into.

Theirs the scent of having been traveled, been taken.

“In A Kitchen Where Mushrooms Were Washed” by Jane Hirshfield from The Beauty. © Knopf, 2015. From the Writer’s Almanac, May 29th.  http://writersalmanac.org/page/5/

The Dance of Cooking Together

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Think of the event of cooking. You are standing at the sink, washing the lettuce, while your partner reaches into the refrigerator to get the cucumbers, reaching back at the same time to turn off the stove. With one hand, she gives you the cucumber and despite the fact that you move across to reach for the grater at the same moment as she moves to pick up a fork, you somehow do not bump into each other. It’s not just that you’ve cooked together hundreds of times. It’s that the cueing is continuously rejigging the now of movement-moving. You are both dancing the interval of the decisions as they realign your cooking bodies.

This quote from dancer-philosopher, Erin Manning’s, Always more than one: Individuation’s Dance is a beautiful description about why it is a joy to cook with people in sync and why it is so difficult to have people help who are not in rhythm. I can imagine this dance is choreographed, perfected and fine tuned in professional kitchens. I wonder if there is a video of a professional kitchen dance somewhere like the early 20th century American and German efficient kitchen movement studies?

I’m lucky to have a partner who “dances the interval of decisions” with me so well and senses when to stand aside, ready to support with washing dishes or chopping. A certain generosity of spirit is demanded of those willing to adjust to the rhythm and lead of another in order to truly help in the kitchen. To be able to cook with someone is perhaps a greater test than being able to eat with someone. I’m not sure how to interpret this passage related to anxious dogs, i.e. Oreo, our dog who eagerly waits for a scrap to fall, constantly adjusting, cueing, rejigging….don’t know if he’s a better dancer or worse. Who is your favorite cooking partner? Why?

(Thai) Essential Lessons

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This week I had the privilege of volunteering at a fundraiser event benefiting Nepal’s earthquake victims, hosted by Thai Essence in West Lafayette, Indiana. Chef Ake Waratap designed and prepared a six course vegetarian menu (with a secret seventh course, a testament to his generosity). This was my first time in a professional kitchen. It was scary and exhilarating at the same time. The strange rhythm of pause-mad rush-pause-extra mad rush was new to me. The challenge to find a place to stand without being in the way of others was overwhelming. “Where can I go, how can I help and more importantly, how can I not mess up?” Were the three worries that persisted the whole five hours I was there. It reminded me of Bill Buford’s description of a professional kitchen in Heat. Don’t get me wrong……. it is precisely this hyper awareness of time and space that makes being in a kitchen so compelling and possibly addictive. It was a joy to watch chef Ake’s attention to detail. Throughout the evening he glanced at his illustrated map of the meal taped to the wall for quick reference. It was as if he was shifting scale between the landscapes of each plate to the movement of whole meal.

Here is what I, a professional kitchen kindergartener, learned:

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Course 1: Fresh Basil and Flower Hand Roll

My job was to gently ladle the tamarind sauce in the tomato flowers. I’ve never poured so intently ever. Thank fully there was another very patient volunteer (Thank you Chris) who wiped out my drippy mistakes.

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BodhnathEyes

Course 2: Momo

This was art on a plate. Chef Ake recreated the eyes of Buddha in gastronomic form. I learned how to place the red sauce inside the black sauce lining. I also learned how to crimp the dumplings into this round shape (I still need practice on that part). Just like the ladling, the simple process required a lot attention.

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Course 3: Green Papaya and Mixed Mushroom Salad

My contribution to this plate was the scattering of the white mushrooms. I learned how to “deliberately scatter,” to fill the plate without touching the rim. Essentially, I was trying to have the mushrooms take up space but not to dominate the plate. I’m amazed how each course became a philosophy lesson about attentive and deliberate action aimed at beauty and yumminess.

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Course 4: Pa Lo Tofu Soup

My contribution here was mostly in the placing the green seaweed piece at the appropriate time (too early it would melt into the soup and right before Chef Ake’s application of three tiny drops of truffle oil). The last four bowls, chef Ake, asked me to apply the oil, as he set up for the next course. I messed up and added four instead of three drops. That bowl was rejected. Chef Ake then explained “you have to let the drops fall by themselves, don’t rush, wait.” Again, another moment of zen, practiced.

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Course 5: Triple Curry Medley with Rice and Roti

My contribution here was to place the ginger flowers on the plate.

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Course 6: Kheer Dessert

My role here was in the making of the small cantaloupe balls hidden in the pudding like little orange jewels.

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Course Seven: Mango-Peaflower Water Sticky Rice and Coconut Water Agar Agar

This surprise dessert shaped like two hands in the Namaste position was saying thank you to the diner for their contribution. My small role was shaping the sticky rice for the mango hands to wrap around.

As you can see, mine were only one pair of many hands that went into this meal and event. Even in my tiny role, I learned a lot. It was a lesson, in attentive action, placement, rhythm, detail and love of the craft and most importantly, of other people. I thought I was helping but I think I was helped more. What an odd meditative rush!

With a deep bow of gratitude to Thai Essence and Chef Ake,

hungryphil

Images from Thai Essence facebook page https://www.facebook.com/pages/Thai-Essence/161166797243714?pnref=lhc, please follow and like if you live in the area or have traveled through.

Thank you for sharing this image of the eyes of Buddha

http://www.100bestwebsites.org/alt/sacredimages/eyesofbodhnath.htm

Lemongrass Tilapia

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We stopped for lunch at a small Vietnamese place in Indianapolis last weekend and ordered Vietnamese Lemongrass Basa Fish. It was light, delicate and lemony. Perfect for a spring lunch. Inspired by the dish, tonight’s dinner: Lemongrass Tilapia.

Anyone reading this please note, my recipes are for people like me who use recipes as a loose guideline. Sorry for the fuzzy numbers and directions.

I used:

2 Tilapia filets

1/2 small tube lemograss puree (or 2 lemongrass stalks chopped and processed fine)

1/2 teaspoon each of ginger and garlic paste

2 tablespoon cornstarch

1 tablespoon of lemony ponzu or just soy sauce

1 tablespoon of sesame oil (although I”m questioning the inclusion of this…seems to add a roasty element to an otherwise citrus dish)

1/2 onion sliced

1/4 red bell pepper sliced

1/4 cup of shredded basil leaves

Salt and pepper (white, if you have it)

1. Rub garlic, ginger, salt, pepper and cornstarch on the fish. Let rest for 5-10 minutes.

2. Make a sauce combining lemongrass, ponzu, sesame oil and enough water to give it a dressing consistency.

3. Fry the filets in 2 tablespoon oil. Set aside.

4. Saute red bell peppers, onions just until soft.

5. Pour sauce mix over and let heat through.

6. Add fish and basil leaves (I added thinly sliced thai peppers). Let it come to a hard simmer, cover and let rest.

Serves two (and a little one) with jasmine rice.

It wasn’t an exact replication but sure was delicious. The lemongrass gives it a gentle citrus flavor that is wonderful. Definitely worth trying and remembering.

The plate needs some vegetable. Next time, maybe some sauteed garlic spinach?

Warm Mother’s Day Wishes with a Bowl of Braised Short Ribs and Polenta

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If you have a weekend to work off a good meal, here’s an idea:  Braised short ribs with Creamy Polenta and Oreo Brownies. Yes it was, over the top. Wow! I really don’t need to say anymore. Both easy recipes. Very forgiving. Didn’t have carrots, didn’t feel the need to reduce the braising liquid, didn’t really have the best short ribs either, didn’t have enough parmesean for the polenta…still delicious and creamy. The brownies…well…I don’t think I ate more than a few bites….super chocolatey…really needs the milk alongside, as the recipe warns. So, be warned. This was an easy recipe to make and very easy to eat. Maybe too easy. Perfect for a weekend treat. Or a beloved’s homecoming.

Had salad and soup for dinner tonight. I feel less guilty about last night. Tomorrow is Mother’s day…all bets are off.

Wishing all of you hungry moms a very warm satisfying meal and HAPPY MOTHER’S DAY,

HungryPhil

http://www.williams-sonoma.com/recipe/braised-short-ribs-with-creamy-polenta.html

http://www.yummly.com/recipe/external/Oreo-Brownies-976297 for the Idea Room

My Right Hand Cuisine and the Fork

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I have a theory. Maybe even a problem. Eating curries and rice with a fork is immensely unsatisfying. Here’s why:

  1. Curry is meant to be eaten with rice (or bread), never alone! Rice is the main dish….everything else garnishes, which is why we ask “did you eat rice?”….not did you eat lunch or dinner. We should serve and eat rice like pasta dressed in sauce, lightly coated with flavor. The rice, whatever it is, jasmine, basmati or brown, is the final component that softens, absorbs and most importantly FLAVORS curries.  Hey…is this why Biriyani was invented? Hence, first problem is substantive, we should be eating rice flavored with curries, not curries with a side of rice in restaurants.
  2. The mixing of curry to rice with a fork is always incomplete. It is difficult to break down the rice enough for the curry to be absorbed. Eating with my hand I can press the rice together with the curry just enough to adhere on its journey to my mouth. That moment of adherence, when the rice forms a compressed bite, is the perfect amount of curry to rice ratio. Such a bite, in Bengali, is called a lokma. I would form and arrange these little bites on a plate for my girls when the were little. As you know, there are rules: right hand, finger tips, no food should touch the palm. Second problem is formal, we are missing the optimal flavor when eating with a fork.

We also miss the textural component, the feel of our food, the dexterity of picking out bones and whole spices. BUT, I have to admit, eating with my hand can be messy even when allowed and not frowned upon. And worse, despite all the washing in the world some pungent curries can refuse to leave.  I want to eat my curry not smell like it.

This is quite a problem. How can I get the taste of a well hand-mixed bite of Deshi food with a fork? Can I design a fork/spoon that can form little rice bites? Disappointment, not necessity must be the mother of invention.

Take for example my dinner tonight: Chicken and potato curry, basmati rice and roasted vegetables. I mixed and mashed it as best I could with a fork and made bites with a cookie scoop. The bites did not form as well as hand mixing would allow. What to do? Oh….the problems I have….sheesh.

But, it does give me an idea of building a 7 course meal with these premixed rice bites….Rice with Bittermelon (bitter), Rice with Dal (salty), Rice with Vegetables, Rice with fish (Garlic), Rice with Chicken (Ginger), Rice with Beef (spicy), Rice pudding (sweet).

Lokma: A bittersweet journey in 7 bites. This will have to be my next experiment.

Testing Light Mac and Cheese (Martha Stewart)

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Had broccoli and not much else at home this evening. Found this recipe online searching “broccoli recipes” on the Martha Stewart site. Aside from a few substitutions: cream cheese, skim milk, red onion and a few additions of extra broccoli, hot sauce and nutmeg, I did follow the recipe (surprisingly!).

This recipe, a combination of broccoli cheese soup and pasta with alfredo sauce, is a good base for many experiments to come. Too luxurious to be called “light.” Well… its “lighter” than an original version with whole milk and heavy cheese but not as light as having a bowl of broccoli with whole wheat pasta dressed in olive oil and garlic. Nevertheless, testing and tasting this bubbly mac and cheese recipe was well worth it on this rainy spring evening. That’s my story for tonight. Dinner saved!

But I really need to stop by the grocery store tomorrow………….

Wishing you happy dinner wherever you are,

Hungryphil

http://www.marthastewart.com/964975/lighter-three-cheese-mac#Broccoli%20Recipes|/1011281/Bbroccoli-recipes/@center/276955/seasonal-produce-recipe-guide|964975

Baked Tandoori Catfish, Brown Basmati Rice and Steamed Cauliflower

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I was looking for a quick, uncomplicated, spicy and yummy lunch at home. Most importantly, a lunch that did not involve me wearing the spices for the rest of day. Hmmmmm………

I found my answer in a packet of tandoori spice and the oven.

    1. Catfish fillets (any neutral white fish ready to soak up flavorings will do) coated with
    2. A mixture of (depending on your heat preference) 1 or 2 table spoons Tandoori spice (any brand will do or you could make it but I was looking for the “fast food” way out) + 2 table spoons plain yoghurt + 2 table spoons vegetable oil. Optional: sprinkle with chopped onions, green chilies and cilantro.
    3. Bake in oven 425 degrees for 30 minutes.
    4. Cook brown rice and steam cauliflower or broccoli as sides. No spice or involved cooking needed. The spicy fish can carry the flavor. Cook the rice first. I hate having to wait for the sides to be done.

Oh the joy of lazy cooking with packaged spices without following package directions.

Can a writer, cook?

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I have long struggled with the supposed duality of thinkers-doers, theory-practice, architect-builder, foodwriter-cook, design historian-designer. I was relieved by object-oriented radical philosopher Ian Bogost’s call for hybrid practitioners: the philosopher-chef, the philosopher-astronomer and the philosopher-mechanic. I am further soothed by Bill Buford’s 2006 Heat. Yes, I writer can cook and vice versa. There is hope for me yet.

Rave reviews of his book include terms like “dirty realism” and my favorite “existential journalism.” His brand of immersed journalism combines personal fascination (obsession) with in-depth social research. I suppose I feel the same awe about him as he felt following the energetic Mario Batali.

Here are four lessons I’ve learned from Heat:

1. In the kitchen as in life the space we take up is precious and worth defending.

  “I was accepted “inside” on a trial basis. “The question is of space,” Mario said. “Is there room for another body?” There wasn’t. There wasn’t room for the people already there. But somehow I squeezed in.”

“In the afternoon, if you can get a perch in the kitchen, you don’t leave it. You don’t answer the phone, run an errand, make a cup of coffee, have a pee, because if you do you’ll lose your space.”

2. Repetition is the key to mastery.

“One day I was given a hundred and fifty lamb tongues. I had never held a lamb’s tongue, which I found greasy and unnervingly humanlike. But after cooking, trimming, peeling, and slicing a hundred and fifty lamb tongues, I was an expert.”

3. Pressure helps develop (kitchen) awareness.   

“ You’ll learn the reality of restaurant kitchen. As a home cook, you can prepare anything any way anytime. It doesn’t matter if your lamb is rare for your friends on Saturday and not so rare when they come back next year. Here people want exactly what they had last time. Consistency under pressure. And that the reality: a lot of pressure.” He (Mario) thought for a moment. “You also develop an expanded kitchen awareness. You’ll discover how to use your senses. You’ll find you no longer rely on what your watch says. You’ll hear when something is cooked. You’ll smell degrees of doneness.”

4. The need to learn is a compulsion. Just give in.

“I found myself needing to understand short ribs…..”

“I needed to learn pasta.”

“ I was now preoccupied by the question of when, in the long history of food on the Italian peninsula, cooks started putting eggs in their pasta dough. Was this a reasonable concern? Of course not.”

So, learning from Bill Buford, I’ll take up and defend space, repeat until mastery, embrace pressure and give in to my need to understand cooking and how we eat both in the kitchen and in front of my laptop.

Eggcellent Easter Recipes (Sorry couldn’t let the pun go…..)

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It has come very recently to my attention (yesterday) that there are many delicious egg centric recipes related to the Easter table. Sure, I was aware of ham, lamb and happy baby spring vegetables, delicious chocolate bunnies and neon yellow peeps…….but I missed out on the associated celebration of the egg, aside from the chocolate eggs. I, a big fan of eggs, feel cheated. In case you are new to this blog, my access to all celebrations whether pertaining to my childhood or not is centered on food. I quite literally consume the Super Bowl (Jim is still trying to teach me the rules of the game), Easter, Eid, Diwali, Thanksgiving , July 4th….you name it. I’m an equal opportunity eater. I know this is a bit reductive and possibly sacrilegious but my intentions are simply to share the joy and means no disrespect. So back to my Easter recipe search. I tried two of the many I found online.

Lemon Buttermilk Saffron Pie

http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/lemon-buttermilk-pie-with-saffron-51223970

This is an wonderful combination of lemony tartness and flowery sweetness. The saffron makes it both exotic and familiar depending on which part of the globe your taste buds woke up.  It really tastes like spring in all its bright, sweet, floral glory. I’m guessing not very traditional but voting that it should be.

Leek and Feta Tart

Leek and feta tart

This was a savory taste of spring with sauteed leeks in a velvety egg blanket studded with feta. I can imagine endless variations of this tart…… asparagus, tomatoes, potatoes, mushroom, squash…just to name a few.

This recipe was measured in grams and I was too lazy to officially convert, so I just used 3 eggs and about a cup of heavy cream. It worked great. Looked and tasted delicate and refined.

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For both recipes I used store bought pie crust. I had both done in a little over an hour (including baking time). The store bought crust meant I only had to mix the filling. This fact makes me think of the book I just finished reading “The American Way of Eating” by Tracie McMillan. Learned a lot. Fascinating and scary read. She mentions how even when we cook at home we use a lot of processed and packaged food. Makes me rethink the concept of home cooking and my use of Pillsbury pie dough. The book deserves a detailed discussion, maybe on a different post. We should start a foodie/eater book club….does anyone know of one out there already?

https://americanwayofeating.wordpress.com/

The best part about making/ assembling/ baking these two pies was cooking with my 13 year old. She first reluctantly sauteed the leeks and later eagerly measured the buttermilk, the sugar (commented on the amount…good for her), separated eggs, whisked and mixed. There are many social, anthropological and philosophical studies about our unique human practice of cooking. Frankly, I don’t know if the pies actually tastes as magical as I remember or if I’m tasting a rare-unhurried-salty-sweet-spring Sunday afternoon with my growing-into-a-cook, baby.

Maybe it doesn’t matter.

Wishing you many happy celebrations to eat through together,

The Hungry Philosopher