Chopped and Blended: Cooking for my modern family

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This summer marks the third year of our blended family adventure. The family dinner has been the locus of both frustration and joy. In our case, we negotiate complex fluctuating schedules that involve cooking for three half the time during the school year, for five the other half and occasionally six (when my college kid visits). We have yet to cook for each other on the rare occasions when its just the two of us. That topic may be a future series entitled, “The Raw and Well Preserved.” Complicating the logistics of groceries and preparation, we also bring with us two very different cooking traditions. mine, South Asian (Bengali) and Jim’s, Southern. Which means, I crave spice and he craves sweet. This basic difference only begins to map the gastronomic battleground that is our dinner table that also includes four daughters with divergent taste profiles. What is a cook to do?

Here is my developing three-pronged strategy. I’d love to hear yours.

  • Do not take any food preferences as a judgment and respect each member’s flavor profile.
  • Deconstructed dinners are your friend. Fajitas, burgers, pasta…anything that can have multiple toppings. Similarly, condiments are required to personalize each dish.
  • Left-overs can make a wonderful buffet or the basis for a recreated and re-purposed dish.

Despite these efforts there are dinners that fail to satisfy everyone. I’ve accepted the inevitability and the evenings of resignation that involve the phrase “let’s just eat out.” My efforts have not been futile. There have been a few good meals that we all shared and enjoyed together. Most importantly, I learned a lot about each of my loved ones. Learning their flavor profiles help me anticipate their reactions and makes my cooking deliberate. Gastronomic profiling certainly has the potential of being abused. Like, telling my 19 year old…”but you loved chicken nuggets and baked potatoes when you were 4.” On the other hand, it can be a working guideline, just like recipes. When judging recipes, I look at which flavor profiles are met or not met and change the recipe accordingly. Cooking becomes a form of user centered design and object oriented attention to ingredients. Let me explain what I mean by flavor profiles and preferences. My family consists of the following profiles: milk, eggs, bread, meat, eggplant and calamari. (of course, there are lot of cross overs and blending of preferences)

Jim (aka MILK) enjoys anything with the smooth rounded umami feel of cream. His preferences lean towards the salty and sweet. Oreo shakes, steaks, mashed potatoes, fried chicken, lemon bars, barbeque sauce on anything. To “Jimmify” a recipe, I add cream. Cream for Jim has the power to transform a curry from a foreign adventure to familiar comfort. Thai curries with coconut milk, alfredo sauce (no pesto for Jim), chicken marsala with mashed potatotes, Indian butter chicken all these have the common denominator of a smooth silky taste.

I have always had a deep love of eggs, whether scrambled, fried, made into a custard, salty, spicy or sweet. After a hard day, I console myself with a fried egg on buttered toast with guava jelly. I enjoy bright lemony flavors. Vegetables. Broccoli is my friend. Spice and heat make me feel alive. Three days of bland food leaves me depressed. I have a love/hate relationship with desserts. I prefer the last bites of my meal to be spicy.

Calamari is one of the last things I ate with my eldest daughter home from college. She sets a very high bar. Every bite for her should aspire to contain a rainbow of flavors. She’s a fan of the refreshing and hearty combo. Burgers with layers of flavors. Tapas style dinners. Dinner plates that offer a range of taste from salty, crunchy, acidic, creamy etc. Aiming for diversity and choice, she is my most adventurous eater. When she visits, I try to have a mix of new and familiar dishes, a mix of cultures, a mix of flavors. Fried Calamari with a dipping sauce, has the elements of chewy, savory, crunchy, creamy, lemony that befits her.

Eggplant represents my second daughter who is the only kid I know who really and honestly enjoys vegetables. Eggplant, broccoli and green beans are her favorite. I’m so in awe of her. She will eat eggplant cooked any style, Indian, Italian, Greek, Thai….Her flavor profile includes clean bright flavors of vegetables, sushi, lentils, as well as savory lamb, goat, eggs, shrimp, lobster, all Asian flavors, Indian food. She will try anything as long as I describe it to her first. Like me, she tires of bland food and left overs.

Meat represents my daughter from another mother. She is my simple eater. Chicken, steak, shrimp, pasta, rice with no spice, no sauce or gravy. Her major food groups are burgers, bacon, cinnamon rolls, Bertolli’s Chicken Florentine and peanut butter sandwiches. She likes her meals to be predictable and consistent. For her, I deconstruct meals by leaving off the sauces and gravies. She’s our minimalist.

Bread represents my youngest daughter from another mother. She will eat or at least try anything if accompanied by bread (and butter). She happily tried beef curry and butter chicken dipped in porota (Indian flat bread). In the past three years she has absorbed the most of our culinary blending.

Everyone LOVES desserts. Brownies, cookies, cakes, lemon bars, magic bars, pecan pie, coconut pie……..anything.

As long as I have something new, something familiar, something starchy, something meaty, something creamy, something spicy and something sweet on our chopped and blended dinner table……….. all is well. It doesn’t happen everyday but on the few occasions when it does….the silence around the table is magic.

This Chopped and Blended Series will be devoted to recipes for deconstructed meals. Look for the first installment soon.

“Something I cooked up”

…..seems a strange phrase to imply improvisation. The metaphor captures the fabricated, responsive, performance of cooking. Despite recipes, despite directions. There is an element of surprise to cooking that is both challenging yet satisfying. For example, yesterday I cooked two batches of brownies (Betty Crocker Mix….I’ll address the use and abuse of prepared mixes in another post). At the appointed time, one batch was almost overcooked while the other was still runny. Same oven, same temperature. Hhmmmm. Assuming I measured and followed directions (which is a huge assumption) I can only guess that the top shelf got too little heat, while the bottom shelf got too much. Now….. know I would’ve needed to exchange the pans half way. Maybe. Maybe the brownies would be runny, or burnt anyway. Cooking is an activity where concept and execution, ideality and reality, recipe and dish are in constant negotiation.  I have often cried, “but I followed the recipe.” As if the failure was the recipe’s fault and not my own. Granted there does exist the occasional bad recipe. Ironically, the only way to test a recipe is to use it, to confront the directions however faulty, to challenge and change the recipe.  Cooking is fundamentally, non-fundamental.  That’s why its so much fun. While my brownies did not fulfill the image on the box, to my surprise, my moment of improvisational rice side dish worked!

I cooked finely chopped onions, carrots, red bell pepper and celery (about 3/4 cup total)  in butter until roasted and glowingly golden. Added sliced mushrooms (a small carton).  Added a cup of left over jasmine rice. Heated all through. Added a half a cup of shredded cheese and about 1/2 of cream. Tossed in a 1/2 cup of peas at the end. Once warmed through the made up rice dish was wonderful with pan roasted lamb chops. Fake risotto. I savored that improvisation. It worked.  I have doubts that I can make it again. In most home cooking, the recipe is an afterthought. Success and failure in the end depends on taste and not a meticulously followed theory. Something we cook up.

What have you cooked up lately? Did it work? What did you do when it didn’t?

Deshi in the Dorm Kitchen – Stir Fried Ramen Noodles

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This is the first installment of deshi in the dorm kitchen dedicated to my college freshman daughter, Amani. Like most second and third generation deshi’s, Amani grew up with a sophisticated palate and a wide range of tastes experiences that span spaghetti to curries. She craves diversity above all else. Here is one of her favorite snacks.

Deshi Stir Fried Ramen Noodles

One packet of any flavored Ramen noodles (Amani prefers Beef)

1/2 cup of sliced onion

1-2 Green Chilli peppers halved lengthwise

1/2 cup of frozen peas (or any vegetable, I used zucchini here)

1 egg

2 tablespoons oil

1. Boil noodles as directed. (I usually microwave it in a bowl of water for 5 minutes)

2. Fry onions and green chillies in oil until slightly roasted and browned.

3. Add strained noodles and seasoning packet.

4. Stir and fry until seasoning gets well incorporated.

5. Break an egg (or two) onto the noodles and again stir until combined and cooked.

6. Add frozen peas.

7. Allow some noodles to get crunchy and fried. (Amani likes the crunchy bottom bits).

Very cheap, very fast and very yummy.

Enjoy.

The Wok and the Tagine

The wok and the tagine had never met before. They came from world’s apart. The tagine found the wok too fast and hard, while the wok found the tagine too slow and fragile. This weekend they sat side by side on my stove-top. The meal was an assemblage of reworked leftovers, more like a mini potluck where two different sides of myself showed up. The butternut squash had been sitting on the counter for two weeks. It needed love. And, the left-over baked haddock wasn’t getting any fresher in the fridge either. So it came to be that a pumpkin beef curry was slowly simmering, as I was frying up haddock fish cakes. I admit, it wasn’t the best combination of dishes. But, the contrast brought out the flavors in unexpected ways. The soft sweet cinnamon pumpkin and flaky cubes of beef cooked in a onion, garlic, tomato sauce felt very different from the fast fried crispy breaded and flaky haddock cake held together by herb flavored buttery potato. Both were rich, hearty and flavorful dishes.  As if they arrived at the same winter weekend meal conclusion through different paths. I could taste the slow of the tagine and the fast of the wok. Both will make good leftovers for a weeknight meal, separately or together.

Hmmm….what can I make for another fast and slow meal….a wok and tagine menu…..or with a pressure cooker and slow cooker, a grill pan and a steamer….an open pit fire and a microwave? Can I make Steak and potatoes, on the grill, in the oven, in a steamer, in the microwave, in a tagine, in a pressure cooker, in a slow cooker? (This is beginning to sound like a Dr. Suess story.) What might be the most contrasting flavors, techniques, ingredients or culinary traditions, I can imagine? How might I design a meal inspired both my Bengali food tradition and Jim’s southern food tradition? Chicken n’ dumplings in a curry pot? Ahhhhh….the possibilities in diversity.

We see this strategy of prompting creativity by introducing surprise, contingency and unfamiliarity, in Food Network, cooking competition shows like Iron Chef, Chopped, Cut throat Kitchen, Sweet Genius, Cupcake wars etc. It is poignant that the condition of creativity and conflict is the same. Difference. We eat what we make of it.

What have been your moments of confusion cuisine?

For now the wok and the tagine need to be washed and readied for the next time on the stove. Maybe even together again.

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super BOWL 2014

yes….mind the ALL Caps on BOWL. This is how I understand the event. The food. The game has been explained to me multiple times and now I’m embarrassed to ask again. So…..I eat and swallow my ignorance, only to join the cheer or boo’s as necessary.

This year was great. Not because of the game (the outcome is irrelevant to me) but because I tried new recipes and feel like I could invest in the game and its commercials vicariously.

I tried:

Cincinnati Chill: http://allrecipes.com/recipe/authentic-cincinnati-chili/

Homesteader Cornbread:http://allrecipes.com/recipe/homesteader-cornbread/

Baked Buffalo Wings: http://allrecipes.com/recipe/baked-buffalo-wing

Nigella’s No Churn Coffee Ice-cream: http://www.nigella.com/recipes/view/ONE-STEP-NO-CHURN-COFFEE-ICE-CREAM-5550

Meyer Lemon Bars: http://www.fromvalerieskitchen.com/2013/01/moms-lemon-bars/

Tyler Florence Berry Trifle: http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/tyler-florence/berry-trifle-recipe.html

All of the recipes tasted wonderful. Finding the right recipes online takes practice and imagination. And, trust.

A lot of times I just get ideas and inspiration from the network shows. Like making shrimp toast…there were shows celebrating the Chinese New Year.

I wonder how cooks find the recipes they want to use? Do they have criteria? Follow the reviews. How did I decide? Imagined the process, looked at the ingredients, watched the show? I don’t have a system. Do I need one? For now, I’m too busy stuffing my face with this sweet and sour piece of heaven. I’ll think about it later.

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Family of Taste Profiles

“I was slowly discovering that if you watched people as they ate, you could find out who they were.”

New York Times food critic Ruth Reichl wrote this observation in her autobiographical Tender at the Bone: Growing up at the Table (1999). It is an extended version of the dictum, “you are what you eat.”  What I like about her comment is the path of discovery in following people as they eat and talk about what they eat and how food reveals their innate sense of joy. I remember spoon-feeding my children their first tastes when they were five or six months. How anxiously I would wait for their reaction. Is she going to spit it out, turn her head away, giggle or cry? I was really watching them grow into individuals with preferences and needs beyond mere survival. I still watch them exercise their preferences as they sit at the table.

My oldest, now in college, for her birthday generally chose Italian food with steak, pasta, bread and cream sauces of salty, sweet and slightly spicy flavors. Mexican flavors would be a close second, a different composition of similar mouth feel. In Bengali food she enjoyed yoghurt based meat dishes….again the creamy, salty, spicy and sweet flavors. She demands a lot from her bites…refreshing, hearty, familiar and surprising. She is an adventurous and aware eater and a joy to cook for and with. She was always a social person and she is now happy to use her comfort in the kitchen to gather people, just as she struggles to gather distinct flavors in each bite. Life for her is a plate of contrasting flavors that requires each bite be delicately composed of all components in happy competition. She is a happy driven competitive person herself who sets near impossible standards of the perfect bite or moment.

My youngest, now entering her teenage years for her birthday generally chooses a seafood restaurant that breaks routine with the welcomed extravagance of lobster and butter sauce. Fried seafood, raw oysters, baked oysters, all creatures of the sea sing to her. She likes the reassurance when her expectations are met. The unknown scares her a bit. She will try anything as long as I describe it as best I can. She savors the consistency of familiar tastes like dal and rice or eggs and toast, of tastes she associates with happy moments like hot spaghetti after a cold swimming lesson. She likes bento boxes of ordered simplicity and well arranged dishes. She will not happily order cow’s tongue tacos at the local Mexican restaurant like her sister but she will try it from her plate. She knows that she’s learning about what she likes and is willing to test herself. She’s trying so hard to grow up and expand beyond her comforting tastes. But for now, she still needs a day of “home food.” For her, I need to write a recipe book to satisfy her craving for consistency when she moves away from my table.

When my eldest visits, I imagine what experiments we can try, what new restaurants we can explore. For my youngest, I revisit familiar tastes as gateways into times we spent together. To my table my children bring the best inclinations of new adventures and fond memories. I watch how they eat as way to witness how they are growing and how they taste the world.

Some of their tastes will change, others will not. I hope to share their table often enough to know the difference.