The Gesture – Chef Alain Passard

“In cuisine, in music, in sculpture, in painting, it’s everything. Either we like the gesture, either we like the hand, or we don’t. Me, I love it. It might be the sense I like the most. Maybe even more than the sense of taste. And this hand…if we want it to be more beautiful, we must work seven hours, eight hours, ten hours in the kitchen everyday. This makes the hand more precise, more accurate and more elegant. That’s the trick.”

The three Michelin star chef, Alain Passard of Arpege explains the fine-tuned sense of gesture in being a great chef.  Advice, I think applicable to any creative and innovative practice: CULTIVATE THE HAND!

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Alain Passard’s Ratatouille

From the Mind of A Chef, season 5.

Fruit Salad Image from: http://www.bonappetit.com/people/chefs/article/larpege

http://www.bonappetit.com/recipe/fruit-salad-with-thousand-flavor-syrup

 

 

 

 

Chicken Meatballs – Gluten free and Versatile

This Monday, I have no weekend food exploits to report. School has begun, summer is waning. Sigh.

Saturday, at home, we had a fun and messy summer dinner together of grilled king crab legs on the porch. It involved crab legs, rolls, corn, coleslaw, butter and not much else. A rare combination of easy and decadent.

Friday night was teriyaki grilled salmon, white rice, tofu and broccoli stir fry and pineapple sweet and spicy chicken meatballs.

The Chicken Meatball dish was an effort to offer a quick protein snack or dinner for my dancer daughter.

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Asian Chicken Meatballs

  • 1 pound of ground chicken

  • 1 cauliflower shredded (in a blender with water and drained, or use food processor)

  • 1 tsp ground ginger

  • 1 tbs soy sauce

  • 1 tbs sauce of your choice (sweet chili sauce works well)

  • 1/2 cup coleslaw mix (shredded cabbage and carrots) or green onions, spinach or any shredded veggie can be added. You can also skip this addition.

  • Mix in order to incorporate the cauliflower throughout.

  • Form into small ball shapes.

  • Pan Fry.[or bake if you prefer]

  • Enjoy as a snack, a meatball slider or toss with additional sauce and vegetables for a dinner dish with rice or noodles.

Its gluten free, veggie filled, freezes well, versatile and tasty. It would be a good sandwich for school, after school snack or dinner. I can adjust the taste of this recipe by tossing the meatballs in bbq, Indian curry, thai curry, honey mustard, or any sauce and vary the flavorings within. As long as some liquid is added, the shredded cauliflower does all the work for this recipe.

As school and daily dance practice begins I’m looking for a variety of snacks that are nutrient dense and portable. What else besides, protein bars, nuts and dates, turkey sandwiches, can she take in her backpack?  Recommendations? All you soccer, gymnastics and dance moms out there, what do your kids like?

Here is an article about what ballet dancers eat. Helpful but not very portable suggestions.

Wishing all of you a wonderful week ahead,

Hungryphil

 

 

Nietzsche’s Mom Sends Sausages

I find something so appealing and humanizing about a philosopher reporting what he eats to his mother.

Michel Onfray’s Appetites for Thought: Philosophers and Food, explores such gastronomic moments where provocative Nietzsche is hanging up sausages, rational Kant is stumbling home drunk, radical Diogenes is chewing on raw octopus, Rousseau, the philosopher of the French revolution, is drinking and eating milk in all forms.  All ideologies need to be fed.

Here is a short excerpt about Nietzsche’s lifelong love of charcuterie:

“In fact the whole of his correspondence with his mother testifies to the primitive character of his mode of nutrition, and this throughout his life. At no time did Nietzsche seem to want to break from charcuterie and fatty foods.

In 1877 his dietary programme was the following:

Midday: Soup, of a quarter of a teaspoon of Liebig extract, before the meal. Two ham sandwiches and an egg. Six to eight nuts with bread. Two apples. Two pieces of ginger. Two biscuits. Evening: an egg with bread. Five nuts. Sweetened milk with a crispbread or three biscuits.

… However, charcuterie was still his favourite topic in his correspondence– ham ala Dr Wiel, ham sausage — as well as honey, chopped rhubarb and sponge cake. During his last years of lucidity – 1888- he denied himself wine, beer, spirits and coffee. He drank only water and confessed to ‘an extreme regularity in [his] mode of living and eating.’ But he still maintained the combinations of steak/omelette, ham/egg yolks/ bread. That summer he was sent 6 kilos of Lachsschinken (a mild ham) to last four months. When he received his package from his mother Nietzsche hung the sausages — delicate to touch – on a string suspended from his walls: imagine the philosopher drafting The Anti-Christ beneath a string of sausages… “

If no meal is innocent or thoughtless, I wonder what to make of my coffee and cereal for breakfast this morning.

Happy Monday my fellow hungryphilosophers,

Hungryphil

 

Image from funnyand.com

Being Extra and Adolf Loos’ Roast Beef

I am an extra.

I am a non-speaking character in a coffee shop background sipping coffee and staring at my laptop. There are raindrops on the windows, a blade of grass moving in the wind outside, cars moving past on the road, murmuring conversations, a large orange sculpture, a concrete floor, a sneeze, a ding, words, a child’s cry, salt and pepper shakers, mugs, music wafting above the hum of mid-morning conversations, a green shirt, smell of eggs and coffee, fingers on the keyboard, people behind the counter waiting, people cooking lunch, yellow road signs, an itch on the neck, words on the wall, wood tables, metal chairs, stripes and me.

I don’t despair being an extra. Extras in books, movies or television are never credited with names, just actions, like, “shopkeeper” or “crying child.” I am a silent actor in your story, a voiced actor in mine. You can only see my actions, my role as an extra. You don’t see my inner monolog, my struggles, my joys, my worries or my guilt. Recognizing that I am an extra in the world, a silent actor is surprisingly empowering. As you walk by my table where I type, I can trip you or smile, I may not change your story but I can color it with my actions. I don’t have to be the main protagonist. The main character depends on the extra. That is the secret: we are all extras. I came to see myself as an extra and found an extraordinary life. I stopped trying to be named, stopped trying to be the main character, a proper noun.

Philosophy, art, religions all try to address our longing to connect to something larger, more meaningful than us, as disparate individuals. This is an extra attempt, an exercise in noticing the small so that the big comes into focus. We all share the small things, like coffee cups, salt, phones, chairs and walls and the big, like cities, roads, landscapes, clouds, and water. How we focus on either shapes how our individual perspectives live and interact. You are an extra in the stories of almost everyone you meet today. You are also your own, more than. Depending on your outlook you could interpret “being extra” as either, being more, extraordinary or being waste, extraneous. I suspect that each of us, are always both.

I first arrived at this question when reading architect Adolf Loos’ 1908 modernist manifesto Ornament and Crime. All sauces he said were ornamental. He announced, ” I eat roast beef.” From my South Asian perspective beef was ornamental, mostly used as flavoring for curries and only rarely the main component during weddings and celebrations when a sacrifice was offered. Always ritualized and associated with a momentous occasion. Eating beef was considered an extra, a luxury. Never taking up the center of a plate like a steak. By Loos’ definition, I could never be modern. The vivid image of Loos eating a dinner of roast beef to explain the socio-economic value modern architecture stuck in my thoughts and made me wonder how my style of eating might inform my style of living, my philosophy.

How would you complete his sentence: I eat ________________________.

Beef French Dip Sandwich Recipe

Place a slab of beef in a slow cooker. Add water and soy sauce ( a least 1/2 cup) to cover the meat. (Hint: the soy sauce and slow cooking enhance the meat flavor).  Cook for 3-4 hours. Shred meat. Fill crusty rolls with shredded meat. Dip the sandwiches in meat juices. Add sliced onions, pickles, horseradish or whatever sauce or extras you like.

What would Loos make of this recipe? Is the sauce extra or is the meat extra? Doesn’t matter, as long as you are satisfied. Enjoy in moderation. The recipe can easily feed a crowd. Good for buffets and potlucks. If you want to avoid meat and the design debate altogether, just eat a cheese sandwich.

Here is a recipe with exact directions and measurements.

Weekend Eats – Red, Yellow and Green Things

This time of year, late August, the farmer’s market in West Lafayette, Indiana is brimming with delicious fresh and colorful things. It was a rare Saturday morning without any plans and perfect for a farmer’s market stroll. The vegetables and herbs were so enticing that I didn’t get any baked or cooked things. That may have been a first for me.  I was uncharacteristically satisfied with our bag of reds, yellows, and greens (and purples). This was the colorful afternoon snack we made:

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Fried Green Tomatoes

Dip slices of green tomatoes (about 1/4 inch thick) into a combination flour and cornmeal, salt, pepper, and paprika. Then dip into an egg wash mixture and back into the cornmeal mix. Shallow fry in a pan into golden. I like it with sriracha mayonnaise.

Ripe Red Tomato Sandwiches

Basically, slices of tomato between two slices of bread, with or without butter or mayonnaise.

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Fried Zucchini Blossoms

Really good stuffed with goat cheese. Sadly the goat cheese waiting in my refrigerator drawer, shall we say, had seen better cheese days. No goat cheese. So my filling was “minimal,” composed of bread crumbs, parmesan cheese and pepper. It was a bit disappointing.  The cheese melts into the flower and builds a creamy center and crusty edge.  On the other hand, without the goat cheese stuffing, I could taste the delicate blossom itself better. Either way, I was eating flowers. I imagine that’s what fairies eat after a rainbow unicorn ride through fluffy white clouds, a bouquet of fried flowers (okay maybe not fried but I bet the edgy fairies eat fried flowers, I don’t know……)

I still have my purple eggplants to eat tonight. May the color fest continue. I love summer and it’s bounty of  juicy, colorful, sweet and yummy things. Sigh. I miss it already as I write in late August sparkling morning sunshine. Soak, soak, soak, summer.  Did we finish all the fried tomatoes?

Wishing you all happy summer sunshine soaking (even if Monday),

Hungryphil

 

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Futurist Summer Recipe – Thomas Marinetti

Summer luncheon for painters and sculptors

After a long period of rest, a painter or sculptor who wants to take up his creative activities again at three o’clock on a summer afternoon may vainly try to excite his artistic inspiration with a succulent — traditional meal.

Weighed down, he would then have to walk to digest it and beset by cerebral anxieties and pessimism would end up wasting the whole day loitering artistically without creating any art.

Instead a meal may be served to him made up of pure gastronomic elements: a bowl of good tomato soup, a big yellow polenta, a heap of green salad, not dressed and not on a plate, a bowl full of olive oil, a bowl full of strong vinegar, a bowl full of honey, a big bunch of red radishes, a mass of white roses complete with thorny stems.

As the spirit moves him, without plates or cutlery, and continually refusing to follow the usual nervous habits which crop up, he assuages his hunger while looking at Umberto Boccioni’s picture of ‘The Football Player’.

Formula by the Futurist Aeropoet Marinetti

Dedicated to my exceptionally talented artist friends. I would make you a “meal of pure gastronomic elements” any day.

Wishing you happy summer,

Hungryphil

 

Weekend Eats: Indiana State Fair and Portuguese Bacalhau

What does Indiana taste like? Like anyplace, depending on where you go, it tastes different. Last weekend was my first taste of the Indiana State Fair. While roasted corn and pork tenderloin sandwiches were obvious favorites, I looked for a mix of the expected and the out of place, like bison egg rolls (popular enough to run out by 3pm). I did have fried green tomatoes, a chicken gyro, beef tips with mashed potatoes and mushrooms, garlic chicken burrito, a pineapple whip and an elephant ear. 

Let me briefly, explain the crazy quantity of food I consumed. It was band competition day at the fair and I had to kill 8 hours between my daughter’s performance. And, I did share (some of it).

While deep fried food rules the fair, I did not partake in the deep fried candy. There is only so much I can eat.

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There were animals: a poultry and rabbits building, a swine building, a cow building, Llamas, and horses. There were crafts like basket weaving, woodworking, sewing, etc. There were farm equipment and demonstrations. There were historical recreations. It was a celebration of Indiana farm produce and industry broadly understood. There was also swirling, dropping, rushing and bright carnival fair rides and games.  I’m not quite sure how band-day relates to this except for offering a large open venue for a competition. It was quite the experience. 8 hours may have been too long but the fair is certainly worth 3 hours of rides, food, and observation.

Sunday was a day of recovery from sitting on stadium metal benches, the late night drive back, the afternoon heat, and the carnival level noise. Our one meal of the day involved the Portuguese “Try the World” box that included bacalhau, Jack Mackerel toasts and then tea and cookies. Surprisingly my favorite was the not-so-good-looking Jack Makerel on toasted baguette slices. The fish canned in olive oil and spice  was soft and not overtly “fishy.” For me, the piri piri sauce made that dish sing the high notes of lemony heat.The bacalhau (not made with traditional salted cod but fresh) was also delicious. Although the bay leaf pieces and large spices were choking hazards and unpleasant in the mouth, the flavor was light and summery. I very much liked the cooking technique under the broiler for 10 minutes on a bed of greens and tomatoes and then another two with garlicky, olive oil coated bread crumbs. I’d like to try that technique with other fish and flavor combinations. A light summer dinner done in 15 minutes.

 

Here is the broiling technique,

  1. Season fleshy thick fish pieces (Cod, salmon, tuna and the like) with whatever seasoning you like.

  2. Sprinkle lemon and drizzle olive oil.

  3. Place fish over a bed of spinach, sliced tomatoes and onions.

  4. Add chicken stock to cover the bottom of the baking pan.

  5. Broil for 10 minutes.

  6. Combine 1 cup of bread crumbs with olive oil to coat every granule, crushed garlic and red pepper.

  7. Spoon bread crumbs over fish, broil for another 2 minutes.

 

 

Chia Seed Pudding – The Art of Recipe Testing

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This week one of my struggles included trying to recreate the recipe for turmeric and ginger chia seed pudding that I had in Breckenridge over the summer. I searched online to find a similar recipe and thankfully found many. My first task was sifting through all the recipes in order to find one that spoke to me. This exhausting search and rescue operation in this era of information overload is a tricky one. Most of the time I just give up and reach for a book or a trusted and vetted source. For this odd recipe, that was not an option. Partly because I wasn’t looking for an exact taste. I was looking for proportion and general direction. How much chia seed to add to how much liquid to yield a pudding consistency? Flavor is something I could play with and find with my own palate.

First try: Too much liquid, good taste. Too runny.

Second try: Unsweetened almond milk, too much turmeric, good thick consistency, wrong flavor.

Third try: Getting closer to something healthy, filling and tasty for breakfast. Now to add the best combination of fruits and granola.

Hungryphil’s Morning Chia Seed Pudding

  • 1 cup chia seeds (course ground in coffee grinder)
  • 4 cups sweetened almond milk
  • 3 tablespoons agave nectar
  • 1 teaspoon of a mix of ground cinnamon and cardamom
  • 1/2 teaspoon turmeric (and a pinch of black pepper to help bring out its goodness)
  • 1/4 teaspoon ground ginger
  • 1 teaspoon rose water

Mix together with a whisk. Set overnight in the refrigerator. Serve with toppings of fresh fruit for brightness and granola for crunch.

I can see why conventional recipe testing wisdom dictates at least three. It was a philosophical task for me to notice these small differences in quantity or procedure that affect the overall taste and makes something different. It made me aware of the pungent bitter power of turmeric, the heat of ginger, the viscosity of blooming chia seeds, the lightness of almond milk, the notes of cinnamon, cardamom and rose water that sing over the soft sweetness of agave nectar. It is not the best thing I’ve ever tasted but it feels good to eat on mornings when chewing seems like such a chore. It brings me back to being on vacation, exploring coffee places in the morning with my nieces, and finding something odd and nourishing together. Am I recreating the emotional memory or the physical taste? Like most of what I cook,  I suspect both.

Here is another recipe that looks promising. The  yellow turmeric makes it soothing for the third  solar plexus chakra (Manipura). My yogi friend Debra talks about the chakras in her blog unfold-yoga.

My recipe is still a work in progress but I am happy with the basic consistency and flavor. My dancingtiya approves. Try it, tweak it and make it your own. Notice the details on the way.

Wishing you all a fulfilling bright and yellow weekend,

Hungryphil

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Pierogi Fest – Whiting, Indiana

Last Saturday, along with three friends, my daughter and I went on a road trip. Our destination? Exotic and distant small town Whiting, Indiana, where the last weekend of July is devoted to celebrating the humble Polish Pierogi. We drove past bountiful corn fields, rows of soy bean bushes, relaxed and grazing animals. We drove under threatening gray clouds and then thankfully, fluffy white cotton candy clouds. We waited patiently through road construction delays, waited not so patiently at a train crossing and then started doing stretches on the side of road. A kind passer-by asked if we’re going to the Pierogi fest, said he’s working there, and offered to guide us through back roads. Eager to escape the wait we followed him to the event parking lot. During that brief ride, there were suspicious alternate scenarios discussed, questions as to why and how he knew we were headed to the fest and concerns that we look like we eat a of pierogies. Our time at the Pierogi fest began with anticipation, excitement and kindness (thank you dear stranger for getting us to the event).

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The event was much larger and better organized than I had imagined. It took up at least 6 blocks of Whiting city center. There was no entry fee. Many stalls had pierogies that could be purchased individually for a dollar. In addition to pierogies, there was also ice-cream, tacos, fried dough and refreshing drinks. This diversity in content and price made it affordable and welcoming. There were rides and games, shows, dances, craft stalls and much more. The variety, affordability and scale made it perfect for families, young couples, large groups and hungry friends. We started appropriately with the first stall: Pierogi Bomb. Soft, moist and flavorful, these pierogies set the standard. The ladies were funny and passionate about the Polish treat, warning us against the cultural inferiority of fried or boiled pierogies available at the fest. My daughter and I had the classic potato and cheese, as well as a spinach. My friend, Siggy, swears by the beautiful blueberry pierogi.

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We tried varieties from other stalls, as well as other treats like potato pancakes (I’ve had better), shaved ice and a horchata drink. The numerous sheesh kabob stalls, made me wonder if sausages and kabobs go together on the Polish table.

 

This cajun stall was so enticing with its large platter of steaming and spicy seafood dishes. Just looks like a party, doesn’t it?

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My little friend group, included my new friend (Kathy, my good friend’s sister-in-law), Robin Henke, Polish pierogi maker and our guide. Robin pointed out good that pierogies don’t have a lot of dough on the edges so every bite has filling. She gave us a few batches of her homemade pierogies. Thanks to her, my pierogi fest didn’t end Saturday but continued Sunday. She even shared her recipe!  Can’t wait to try it and feed my new love of pierogies and pierogi fest.

If you missed it this year, mark your calendars for next year.

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Robin’s Pierogi Recipe

POTATO FILLING
3 Tablespoons Butter
1/2 Cup Chopped Onion
2 Cups old Mashed Potatoes
1 Teaspoon Salt
1 Teaspoon White Pepper
1 Cup Shredded Cheese – I use cheddar and mix it into the potatoes when the are still warm

DOUGH
3 Eggs
1 Container (8 oz) Sour Cream
3 Cups Flour
1/4 Teaspoon Salt
1 Tablespoon Baking Powder

1. For the mashed potato filling, melt the butter in a skillet over medium heat.
Stir in the onion and cook until translucent, about 5 mins.
Stir into the mashed potatoes and season with salt and pepper.

2. To make the dough, beat together the eggs and sour cream until smooth.
Sift together the flour, salt and baking powder.
Stir into the sour cream mixture until dough comes together.
Knead the dough on a lightly floured surface until firm and smooth.
Divide the dough in half, then roll out one half to 1/8 inch thickness.
Cut into 3 inch rounds.

3. Place a small spoonful of the mashed potato filing into the center of each round.
Moisten the edges with water, fold over and press together to seal.
Can work on the second half of the dough while cooking the first batch.

4. Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil.
Add pierogies and cook for 3-5 minutes, or until the pierogi float to the top.
Remove with a slotted spoon and let cool on parchment lined baking sheet.

Once I get a cookie sheet full, I put it in the freezer till pierogies are frozen.
Then I shrink wrap them in how ever many I want in a package.

5. To reheat them: melt some butter in a skillet, can add some sliced onion, lay the frozen pierogies on top of onions and sauté until heated through, turning gently a time or two and browned on the outside. I like mine a little crispy on the outside.

Learning from Srilankan Kutto

Srilankan Kutto was a new discovery for me in NYC a few weeks ago at Kottuhouse.
A street food composed of shredded flatbread, curry, vegetables and eggs. Tastes strangely like South Asian flavored stir-fried wide noodles. The dish showed me that shredded bread can a be wonderful new technique. The dish would be a perfect way to use up leftover curries or stretch a curry. It is infinitely adjustable too. Leave the meat out, add more veggies, cut the spice, add spice, make is soft, make it dry etc. My hungryphil jr. daughter, Atiya, suggested adding a fried egg on top (instead of mixed in). This way the runny yolk could dress and soften the bread too. It would be a perfect brunch bowl. The dish recomposes a traditional hand scooped plate of curry and bread to become a spoon and bowl friendly dry dish.  Same flavors, altered form. I’m excited about using the technique for any leftover curry or chili, or stew. Here is the standard I was working from.

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http://www.srilankanrecipes.info/recipes/RiceDishes/KoththuRoti.aspx

http://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1017015-chicken-kottu-roti

Here is what I did:

  1. Made a quick chicken curry (diced chicken thighs, diced tomatoes, paprika, ginger, garlic, turmeric, coriander, onion, garam masala and vinegar) or you could just use your favorite curry powder.
  2. Shredded three store bought parathas (flat bread from the frozen section of an Indian grocery store) into small 1/4 in pieces. Any unleavened flat bread should work.
  3. Saute sliced onions and green chilies in a wok.
  4. Added a cup of shredded cabbage and carrots from a bag. Coleslaw bag.
  5. Added two eggs.
  6. Added shredded bread.
  7. Added enough curry to moisten the bread. You can always serve more curry on top.

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It didn’t taste as moist as Kuttohouse but was still very much like a stir-fried flavorful spicy noodle dish.

Try ripping up your flatbread and tossing it with something in a hot wok! It gives “bread bowls” a whole new meaning.

Wishing you happy taste experiments,

hungryphil